In September I was approached by a potential new breeder with some experience of sheep keeping, but little knowledge of Southdowns. They asked a lot of questions by email and I felt the following personal responses/answers to her questions may be useful to other new breeders.
I am interested in showing, but because I work full time I am not sure I would have enough time?
Showing is time consuming. There is the preparation and feeding as well as the attendance at shows (mainly May- Sept). There are also primestock shows in November and December.
A lot of time and effort goes into showing.
How do I start showing?
A good starting point is to visit some shows and/or actually show at a small local event (there is nothing like learning by doing). Get the dates especially entry dates in the diary and work back from that.
What’s involved in pre-show preparation?
There is an article by Jonathan Long in the 2018 Southdown Autumn Newsletter (page 19) which describes the comprehensive approach he takes to prepare for showing. Whilst some other breeders take such a thorough approach. It is not always necessary. As I show mainly at the Society shows/sales, I use a more minimalist approach thus: I plan roughly what sheep I want to show (and/ or sell) and check the dates of the event especially entry dates. Some of the events have quite early closing dates for entry. Others allow entries quite close to the show date e.g. three weeks. As I usually only “show” at Society sales my own process is based around the Society’s two main sales in August and September.
I get those showing/sale sheep shorn early e.g. March. I know it seems mad as an outstanding sheep/Southdown should stand out, but appearance matters more than it should at shows and sales so longer wool makes the sheep look bigger and, when trimming, gives more to work with. About 2-3 months before the planned event I separate the “show team” out, and check through the basics: feet, teeth, udder/testicles and general “style” and condition. I will probably lightly trim feet if they need it. The sheep are then preferentially fed. This usually means the best quality grazing available and some hard grub c. 200-300 g/day (depending on animal size (e.g. less for lambs). About 14 days before the show I will recheck their feet and then a week or so before they are due to be trimmed they are washed.
There is lot of skill to expert trimming.
The sheep are then trimmed – professionally – I have the kit and can do a bit of light trimming, but I have not yet acquired sufficient topiary skills. Trimming costs between £20-35/head and there may be a mileage/call out charge if the trimmer has to come a long way or has to do only a few sheep. Trimming needs to be done about a week or less before the event. The expert topiarists will be doing this on the day before and some more on the day… some of which I suspect is nerves or they would rather talk to their sheep than other exhibitors! If you want to keep the sheep clean post trimming it may be good to get coats/covers, and change the diet to hay to minimise the risk of scouring.
How do I get better quality sheep*?
That’s a can of worms! What does one mean by a “better quality sheep”? Is it about lamb/meat production over a lifetime or is it about a good specimen… for the purpose of this question I will focus on the “showing” elements.
First of all make sure the sheep are physically good sheep. Though written primarily to support Society Sales, the Minimum Standards and Recommendations on the website are a good starting point. Additional guidance is in preparation, but not yet available. This will be more about the physical attributes/structure of the animal and applies to all sheep whatever the breed. Then, having established that the animal is a “good sheep” have a look at how well the animal meets the “breed description and characteristics”. Additional advice on this is also in preparation. There is also a third factor that will become apparent as you show. This is the “charisma” or star quality: the look, “cat-walk style” and arrogance of the animal. Inevitably many aspects of the breed are down to personal choice – there are many shades of mouse brown - so ultimately you need to decide what type of Southdown you like. I am not sure there is that much satisfaction – unless winning is all that matters - in showing sheep and winning rosettes if you think the animal looks like a llama, bat or an elephant. Remember that the sheep that wins its class is the one that one judge thinks is the best on that day in that group of sheep. Different judges will choose different sheep and on a different day the same judge may prefer another sheep.
*Probably the best way of getting better quality sheep is to keep asking questions and learn the basics of sheep keeping from other shepherds and sheep keepers and thus build your own experience and judgement. Possession of show rosettes is probably a good indication that the sheep are “better than”… but that is not an indication that a sheep is “good quality”. Besides many breeders have very good sheep, but rarely if ever show.
Does showing affect prices?
It would I think be to fair to say that at the Society’s two major sales Worcester in August and Melton Mowbray, in September, that animals with rosettes especially first prize and show champions attract a premium price. I would also suggest that animals in show condition i.e. prepared and groomed will sell and/or sell better than sheep fresh from the field.
Do you have wash and trim to show Southdowns?
No it is not compulsory, but nearly everyone does. It is an advert for the breed and their flock. However, it is not always necessary to conduct a Rolls Royce job. It is less likely that a judge will select a poorly prepared sheep as the first prize winner, unless the class is very small and/or the primped sheep has some very obvious and fundamental flaws. Do watch out though, a few shows specify “untrimmed” sheep.
How can I be successful in the showring?
Put succinctly to me by one respected judge and former breeder, success in the show ring depends on three things: good sheep, good preparation and good showmanship. And another senior judge would add a big “good sheep” will often win over a smaller “good sheep”.
Who does the Signet recording measurements, is a vet involved?
Almost all the measurements are done by the breeder, however, the “scanning visit” is conducted by an AHDB technician… a lot cheaper than a vet and more competent/experienced in this type of scanning (measuring the fat and eye muscle content over the rib). The technician also has the specialist equipment needed. Not all flocks that are recorded are scanned every year – most do, but some a take a year off for logistical reasons. Signet records for each animal will show if the animal has been scanned. If you are buying from a Signet recorded flock they will have access to these records and can provide them if you ask.
Does it cost more to buy a Signet recorded animal ?
Yes and No. For example my best performing ewes e.g. in the top 10% of the breed are worth more to me than my “average” ewes so I will expect a premium for them. Likewise if I want to buy a top performing animal I will be prepared to pay more for that animal. Other breeders price their animals differently and their prices may take account of their flock’s reputation and history, the rarity value of their genetics etc.
What is involved with Signet recording?
Currently c. 10-12 breeders record through Signet. Most breeder’s aims in recording are two-fold i) to identify superior performing sheep within their own (and other) flocks i.e. grow faster have better muscle: fat ratio, maternal ability etc… For example, answering the ageold questions such as “is it better to keep a big single or a smaller twin?” and/or “which twin should I keep?”.
“Scanning the eye muscle measures fat and muscle depth”
ii) the second reason is to be able to promote Southdowns as Terminal Sires to commercial flocks who (should in theory at least) want a high performing ram to get better faster growing lambs out of them. And “in theory” again farmers and breeders should be willing to pay more for a ram with good performance figures. Speaking personally, I have bought and not bought rams from certain breeders because of their performance figures or lack of performance data.
Which flocks choose to record?
It is mainly larger flocks > 20 ewes that record. This is principally due to the economics i.e. the cost of recording. The annual fee is £228 (+VAT) for flocks of up to 100 ewes and there is an additional charge for ultrasound scanning and independent weight verification at 16-21 weeks of £175 (+VAT).
Some larger flocks do not record because as well as the costs there is additional paperwork and recording e.g. eight-week weights etc.
What do most breeders do with their ram lambs?
Most ram lambs go to the butcher. In my flock I castrate any small lambs that I think will take too long to finish i.e. more than eight months. This is usually about 10-15 out of 45 ram lambs. I make selections of ram lambs to register based on their performance, looks and genetics. Out of the 45 ram lambs this means I keep 4-6 each year. I expect/ hope to sell half of these, some I may retain. Surplus unsold shearling rams are sent to slaughter. Most breeders keep too many rams. Less than 50% of ram lambs that are registered ever go on to do any work in pedigree flocks.
The butcher is the best place for most ram lambs.
How do breeders sell their surplus stock?
Breeders will do a mixture of Society auctions and sales off the farm. Except possibly in Sussex and Kent, it is unlikely that Southdowns will do well in general auctions for breeding stock. Some breeders organise an occasional auction for themselves. Some breeders only ever sell off the farm.
How long does it take to reach a kill weight?
Southdown “finished” lamb liveweights – depending on the breed “type” - vary from 32-44kg. Based on a 50% killing out percentage, this gives a carcase weight of 16-22kg. How long it takes a lamb to reach a finished weight depends on both nutrition and the breed “type”. All lambs will finish more quickly with better grub. My first lambs this year weighing c. 36kg went at 130 days. Last year my larger lambs went at c 180 days while the less thrifty lambs went at 250 days (It was a particularly bad year…remember the Best from the East). An average for most of my lambs in a reasonable year would be 180 days.
Would a Southdown ram be happy with 10 ewes?
The glib answer is that a Southdown ram would be happy to be bought and have his head scratched. Yes, though of course he would be happier with larger numbers. My ewes are usually sponged to synchronise oestrous, so I mate them in groups of 8-10. Very occasionally a ram may jump a fence to reach a ewe in season, but usually they want to stay with their own breeding group... and/ or stand at the edge of the field watching the adjacent ram who is busy watching him.
Do people rent out rams?
Yes a number of breeders rent out rams or provide board and lodging to visiting ewes. This is helpful in allowing smaller flocks to get access to - hopefully - better genetics than they can afford. It also makes life simpler for the smaller flocks as they don’t need a separate “ram field”. My standard hire cost is £50 for the first five ewes and £5/ewe thereafter. This is usually for 4-6 weeks hire and done on the basis that the hirer collects and returns the ram. Thus the hire cost for a 10 ewe flock would be £75.
If you are thinking of buying ewes in the autumn/winter do consider asking the breeder to supply them tupped.
